"Mahonesa", "Mahonnaise"or "Mayonnaise" ???

We know that it is one of the most famous sauces in the world and that, due to its versatility, it serves as an accompaniment to many dishes. Its history, however, is a fascinating tale that transports us from ancient Rome to 18th-century Menorca, where this emulsion was popularized before conquering France and, from there, the rest of the world.

Origins: From Roman Moretum to Fra Roger’s All-i-Oli Bo

The concept of culinary emulsion is not modern. In ancient Rome, peasants prepared Moretum, a mortar-mixed blend of garlic, cheese, herbs, and olive oil, used as both a condiment and a staple food. Over the centuries, this preparation evolved into various Mediterranean variations, such as pesto, Catalan allioli, and Menorcan salsa mahonesa.

A key reference comes from the 18th-century cookbook Art de la Cuina, written by Franciscan friar Francesc Roger, better known as Fra Roger, from the Sant Francesc convent in Ciutadella. This compilation, considered the oldest record of Menorcan gastronomy, mentions all-i-oli bo in several recipes. However, the book does not describe its preparation, possibly assuming that anyone following the recipes already knew how to make it. Since Fra Roger was born in 1704 during the War of Spanish Succession, it has been considered evidence that this sauce predates the French occupation of Menorca in 1756.

Notably, in Menorcan dialect, the particle bo alters the meaning of the preceding noun. In this case, all-i-oli bo refers to a simple emulsion of egg yolk, oil, and vinegar or lemon, excluding garlic. If the sauce had been prepared as modern allioli, it would not have paired well with the dishes proposed by Fra Roger.

Richelieu and the Export of Menorcan Sauce

During the Seven Years' War, while Menorca was under British rule, the siege of San Felipe Castle in 1756 was a decisive episode in the struggle for control of the Mediterranean. In April, a French force led by the Duke of Richelieu landed on the island. The French troops launched an amphibious operation, securing strategic positions before advancing toward Mahón. Meanwhile, British Admiral John Byng attempted to relieve the British garrison but was defeated in a naval battle on May 20 and retreated to Gibraltar.

This landing marked the beginning of the land campaign that eventually forced British troops to retreat into the fortress. Shortly after his arrival in Menorca, Richelieu was hosted by a Mahón family at an estate near the castle, where a wedding celebration was taking place. During the banquet, he was served a well-known sauce to accompany some of the 36 dishes recorded in the Caules Manuscript. In this document, the recipe is listed as salsa de peix crua (raw fish sauce), described as follows:

“Pendreu vermells de ou, a proporció de lo que volgueu fer, dins un tià gran, y los debetreu molt ab una cullera grosa, tiranti sovint un ratxet de oli y colque pesich de seba tallada molt petita, juavert y un pesich de pebre bo, un poch de vinagre, remenanto sempre depresa per que no se trii: aquesta salsa es bona per posar ab peix sech.”

"Take egg yolks, in proportion to the amount you wish to make, place them in a large earthenware bowl, and beat them well with a large spoon, adding a drizzle of oil frequently and a pinch of finely chopped onion, parsley, and a bit of black pepper, along with a touch of vinegar, stirring constantly to prevent separation. This sauce is good for serving with dried fish."

Camilo José Cela, Richelieu, and the Mayonnaise Legend

Nobel Prize-winning writer Camilo José Cela explored in his works the connection between the Duke of Richelieu and salsa mahonesa, as well as a possible love story during the siege of Menorca in 1756. It is said that after capturing Fort San Felipe, Richelieu took the Menorcan oil-and-egg-based sauce to France, where it eventually evolved into the name mayonnaise. Some historians suggest that a printing error led to the current spelling.

Additionally, Richelieu has been attributed a letter in which, unable to name the sauce after a Menorcan lady, he decided to call it mahonnaise. However, no historical evidence supports the existence of this letter or the romantic tale. Cela, fascinated by traditions and popular stories, helped spread these versions, though his approach was more literary than historical.

De Re Cibaria and Mayonnaise as the "Queen of Cold Sauces"

In 1819, Joan Vidal Seguí published Manual de la Cuinera Menorquina, which was later referenced by Pedro Ballester in his 1923 book De Re Cibaria, another testament to the importance of mahonesa in Menorcan cuisine. Ballester cites Ángel Muro, who described it as "the queen of cold sauces," highlighting its versatility, especially for pairing with cold fish and meats.

In the Fish and Seafood section, Ballester includes a recipe from the finest Menorcan cooks:

“Se ponen en un almirez o en un plato dos o más yemas de huevo, según la cantidad que se quiera  de salsa, y con una cuchara de madera o con la mano de almirez, al tiempo que se echa muy despacio aceite del más refinado, se revuelven las yemas con gran cuidado y siempre en la misma dirección para que no cuajen; cuando se han echado ocho cucharaditas de aceite se agrega hasta una de vinagre o de zumo de limón, prosiguiendo el movimiento de rotación hasta que la masa adquiere la consistencia de la mantequilla; y a ello se llega, teniendo en cuenta que el aceite espesa y el ácido alarga”.

"Place two or more egg yolks in a mortar or plate, depending on the desired amount of sauce. With a wooden spoon or pestle, slowly add the finest oil while carefully stirring in the same direction to prevent curdling. After adding eight spoonfuls of oil, incorporate one spoonful of vinegar or lemon juice, continuing the circular motion until the mixture reaches the consistency of butter. Keep in mind that the oil thickens while the acid thins it."

He then explains how to prepare the fish:

“El pescado, se hierve con agua, sal y un ramillete surtido; cuando está cocido se sirve entero o sin espinas, cubriéndolo con la salsa y guarneciendo la fuente con huevo duro, cogollitos de lechuga, escarola cortada muy menuda, aceitunas, alcaparras, trocitos de pepino, anchoas, etc.”

"The fish is boiled in water with salt and a bouquet of herbs. Once cooked, it is served whole or boneless, covered with the sauce, and garnished with hard-boiled eggs, lettuce hearts, finely chopped endive, olives, capers, cucumber pieces, anchovies, etc."

The book also includes the Caules recipe for salsa de peix crua.

A Menorcan Legacy in World Gastronomy

The history of mayonnaise is that of a sauce born in Menorca, whose emulsion was known since ancient times and perfected on the island before its historical circumstances brought it to France. Although its name and worldwide popularity are credited to the French, its roots remain firmly anchored in Menorcan culinary tradition.

Today, mayonnaise continues to be a cornerstone of international cuisine. However, growing research supports its origins in Menorca, restoring the island’s rightful recognition as the birthplace of one of the world’s most iconic sauces.

So the next time you enjoy a spoonful of mayonnaise, remember that you are tasting a piece of Menorca’s rich gastronomic history—the true cradle of mahonesa.